The Big Island of Hawaii is the largest of the Hawaiian Islands and is a diverse and captivating destination. From volcanic landscapes to lush rainforests and pristine beaches, this island offers something for everyone. Having already visited the other 3 major Hawaiian islands (Maui, Ohau and Kawai), the Big Island was on our to do list for the longest time, until in November of 2024 we decided to make an impromptu trip and check it off our list. Below is the 5 day itinerary we followed, which will guide you through the island's highlights, ensuring a Hawaiian adventure as memorable a ours.
Best Time To Visit
Big Island has temperate weather year round. The eastern side of the island, including the city of Hilo gets rainfall 200 days of the year, whereas the Western side, including the city of Kona, is dry most of the year. We visited during the shoulder season in November, two weeks before the busy holiday travel began. We were able to enjoy the outdoors and vistas without any crowds or lines or traffic.
Where To Stay
As the name suggests, the Island is big, with beautiful white sandy beaches concentrated on the western side of the island and rain forests, gardens, waterfalls and Hawaii's Volcano National Park situated on the eastern side of the island. To avoid driving back and forth across the island, it is best to divide your time equally by staying in the town of Kona and Hilo.
In Kona, we lodged at the Royal Kona Resort situated in the center of the historic Kailua village. Despite being pricey, this location is unbeatable as it lies on the main tourist route, Alii Drive, near eateries and coffee shops, and is centrally positioned to access all the white sandy beaches on the island's western side.
In Hilo, any AirBnB within the town would be perfect. We stayed in Pahoa, which is south of Hilo and 7 miles from the main highway, and we regretted choosing that location.
Places to Eat
Restaurants are a plenty in Kona and Hilo, but non-existent towards the center of the island. So plan your trip such that you are close to either of the two towns during meal time. Here are a few ones which had vegetarian options and which we highly recommend:
Racha Thai - Located inside a food court in Waikoloa Village, on the way to Hilo from Kona, they served the most amazing mango curry. Service was quick and friendly too.
Tuk Tuk Thai Food truck - This food truck is conveniently located close to the entrance of Volcano National Park, and is a perfect halt for a quick lunch before entering the park. It was pouring outside when we went, and our order of hot and steamy pad thai and red curry with rice hit the spot and energized us for the planned hikes in the National Park.
Kamana Kitchen in Hilo served up huge portions of excellent Indian cuisine. The veg biryani and thali portions were so huge that we saved most of it for lunch the next day.
Kai Eats and Drinks in Kilauea historic village has the best sunset views to admire while you dine in Kona. Plus they have an extensive menu of vegetarian options, making the herbivore in me very happy.
Kona Heaven Coffee on Alii Drive in Kona was our go to place for a morning cup of Kona joe and watch boats pass by as we sipped our poison. One time, we also saw some dolphins frolicking in the water. They also served breakfast items and pastries.
Day 1
We flew into Kona from San Jose International Airport. When we landed, we were pleasantly surprised to see that the Kona International Airport is open-air! This immediately kicked off our tropical vacation mode. We had booked our first two nights in Hilo. So we got our rental car and immediately started driving towards Hilo on the eastern side of the island.
Renting a car : A quick note about rental cars - since we had planned our trip 2 weeks prior to prime holiday travel season, we had no issues booking a rental car in the last minute. However, I have heard that they are hard to come by during holiday season in November and December, be it through the big car rental agencies or Turo. So plan to book your car rental months in advance, if going during peak tourist season. Also book a 4x4, because many tourist spots, such as some black sand beaches and the summit to Mauna Kea are only accessible with a 4x4.
Waipio Valley Lookout: Our first stop was for a breathtaking view of Waipio Valley. This scenic lookout offers panoramic views of the lush valley, black sand beach, and towering cliffs. Although you cannot drive down to Waipio Valley itself, there are tours that take you down, which we didnt venture to sign up for. As you drive to the lookout, you will pass many fruit stands setup by locals. Stop at one of the stalls for a quick bite or to refuel. But fair warning - the prices can be pretty steep, with young coconut water costing upwards of $10!
Umauma Falls: Next, we headed to Umauma Falls. The waterfalls itself is located on private grounds and requires $5 per person as an entry fee. As part of the Umauma Falls experience, you can sign up for a number of adventure activities such as ATV tour, ziplining above the triple tiered falls and rappelling through the falls. The self guided tour of the falls requires a short 1/2 mile uphill walk on a paved road and through a tropical garden. This stunning tiered waterfall cascades into a beautiful pool, surrounded by lush greenery. You can enjoy a picnic or simply relax on the benches overlooking the falls.
Akaka Falls State Park: We continued our waterfall adventure at Akaka Falls State Park, which is a short drive from Umauma Falls. Akaka Falls is the most popular falls on the Big Island, and one of the tallest in Hawaii at 442 feet. So it is a definite must-see. Parking costs $10 per car, and entry fee is $5 per person. From the parking lot there is a 1 mile circuitous trail, which when traversed counterclockwise, first takes you to a lookout point to view Kahuna Falls. At the time of this writing, there was so much shrubbery growing in the area, that we could not see Kahuna Falls, but could only hear its thunderous roar. Hiking down the path further takes you to the majestic Akaka Falls, one of the most stunning waterfalls on the island. The entire walk took us about 30 minutes, with many stops for photos.
With nothing else planned for the day, we made a quick stop in the town of Hilo for dinner and checked into our Airbnb.
Day 2
After a good nights rest, we embarked on one of the most scenic drives in the south eastern part of the island - the Red Rock Scenic Road, also known as Kalapana Kapoho road. The road was originally a real red asphalt road made with red cinders from the area which now has been repaved black.
As you drive, you'll witness firsthand the raw power of nature and the island's constant evolution. The drive starts at Kaimu Black sand beach, the newest black sand beach formed on the island.
The roadway is magical with tree tunnels, lush forests, hidden coves and beaches and a gorgeous coastline.
The drive finally ends at the beautiful Issac Hale beach park where you turn back and drive back up Kalapana Kapoho road.
Next on our to do list was the famous Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. After having a scrumptious Thai lunch at the Tuk Tuk Thai food truck close to the entrance, we ventured into the park for our planned hike. This park is home to two of the world’s most active volcanoes: Kīlauea and Mauna Loa. The park offers a unique opportunity to observe volcanic activity firsthand. There were no active volcanoes when we visited, so we missed seeing any orange glows from lava flows or steaming vents. Like any other National Park, entrance fee is $30, but we used our America The Beautiful National Park Pass and were able to enter for free.
The most famous hike in the park is the 3.2 mile Kilauea Iki and Crater Rim Trail.
Top L : Lush rain forest on the trail. Top R : Entering the Lava field portion of the trail
Bottom L : View of the trail on the crater floor, from the crater rim.
Bottom R: A beautiful rainbow formed on the crater floor.
Despite the rain, we embarked on the memorable hike. We first hiked along the Crater Rim Trail, which offered breathtaking panoramic views of Kīlauea caldera. The trail wound through a lush rainforest, the vibrant green foliage contrasting with the stark black lava flows. The rain intensified, creating a serene ambiance as we hiked through the mist. The trail then took us down into a massive volcanic crater, where we witnessed the remnants of a past eruption. It was one of the most unique hikes we had been on.
As we concluded our hike along the Kīlauea Iki and Crater Rim Trail, we decided to make a detour to the nearby Thurston Lava Tube, a captivating underground tunnel formed by ancient lava flows.
The smooth, glassy walls of the tube, formed by the rapid cooling of lava, were a testament to the immense power of volcanic eruptions. The soft glow of our flashlights illuminated the intricate patterns on the walls, highlighting the tube's natural beauty.
Visiting the Thurston Lava Tube was a fitting end to our rainy day adventure. It provided a fascinating glimpse into the geological history of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.
We ended the day by driving back to Hilo for a scrumptious Indian dinner at Kamana Kitchen, before heading back to our AirBnB for the night.
Day 3
On Day 3, we checked out of our Airbnb since we planned to stay in Kona for the following two nights. Our schedule included visiting more waterfalls and embarking on an adventurous journey up Mauna Kea to watch the sunset.
Our journey began with a visit to Wailuku River State Park to view Rainbow Falls, a majestic 80-foot waterfall that cascades into a pool below. As the sunlight filters through the mist, a vibrant rainbow often appears, hence the waterfall's enchanting name. The short hike over a few steps to the falls rewards visitors with stunning views of the waterfall, surrounded by lush tropical vegetation.
Afterward, we visited Boiling Pots where the Wailuku River passes through several large pools that resemble boiling water. It wasn't particularly impressive, but since it was along our route, it was easy to make a brief stop.
Next, we explored Wai'ale Falls, a waterfall that is just as stunning but less frequented by visitors, best viewed from a bridge. Even from afar, the falls' thunderous power was palpable, as the Wailuku River was swollen with water due to the heavy rains and flooding that occurred the week before we arrived. Peepe Falls can also be seen in the distance from Wai'ale Falls. The strong water current offers a captivating demonstration of nature's might.
After a morning of waterfall chasing, we indulged our sweet tooth at Big Island Candies. This iconic candy store offers a wide variety of delectable treats, from macadamia nut brittle to chocolate-covered shortbread cookies. The aroma of freshly made chocolates and candies filled the air, tempting our taste buds. As we sampled the various treats, we couldn't help but marvel at the skill and artistry of the confectioners. Each piece of candy was a work of art, both visually appealing and delicious. The perfect ending to our visit to Hilo.
Macadamia nut brittle to chocolate-covered shortbread cookies in the making
We had planned our day such that we would have enough time to drive up Mauna Kea, a dormant volcano, in time for sunset, a celestial experience in itself. Along with timing your visit, you will also need to plan your dinner, ie. pack dinner for your trip, as there are no restaurants or eateries between Hilo and Mauna Kea, and between Mauna Kea and Kona.
Before embarking on this high-altitude adventure, we, along with other visitors, underwent a mandatory car check at the Visitor Center, which is located at 9000ft. Park rangers assessed our 4X4's suitability for the challenging road conditions, ensuring it could handle the steep, winding ascent and descent. Those who preferred a guided tour could opt for organized excursions, but those can be quite expensive, costing over $300 per person.
We opted for the self-drive option as it offered a more personalized experience. However, we had to prepare ourselves for the challenges associated with driving at such a high altitude. At nearly 14,000 feet, the air is thin, and the weather can change rapidly. It's imperative to pack warm clothing, as temperatures can drop significantly, even on sunny days.
As we ascended the mountain, the landscape transformed dramatically. The lush tropical vegetation gave way to barren, volcanic terrain. The higher we climbed, the more breathtaking the views became.
The sunset from Mauna Kea was a sight to behold. As the sun dipped below the horizon, painting the sky with vibrant hues of orange, pink, and purple, the world seemed to stand still. The silence was broken only by the howling wind, a constant reminder of the mountain's power. We had to hold on to each other, for fear of being blown away!
The summit is also home to numerous world-class observatories, taking advantage of the clear skies and stable atmosphere. These telescopes allow astronomers to peer into the depths of the universe, unraveling the mysteries of the cosmos.
Once the sun dipped beneath the clouds, we, along with numerous other 4x4s and vans, slowly descended the hill. We paused at the Visitors Center to enjoy our packed dinner before continuing on to Kona. Upon arriving in Kona, we settled into the Royal Kona Resort, located at the boundary of Kailua Historic Village, and decided to end our day there.
Day 4
What we most appreciated about the Royal Kona Resort was its location. Situated right in the heart of Kona's tourist area, it offered ocean views, and was just a short distance from restaurants and coffee shops, with the best sunset views and numerous shops in the historic Kailua village. We began our morning with a sunrise walk, grabbing coffee at Kona Heaven Coffee. We strolled along the coastline on Alii Drive, visiting shops and galleries, and absorbing the history of Kona as we passed by Hulihe'e Palace, where Hawaiian royalty spent their summers, and MoKu'aikaua Church, the oldest Christian church in Hawaii. The Kona Farmers Market, an open-air market for produce and crafts, was ideal for souvenir shopping.
We spent the remainder of the day enjoying two of the most popular white sand beaches of Kona.
Our initial destination was Magic Sand Beach, a distinctive coastal treasure famed for its "disappearing act". In times of high surf, especially during winter, the beach's sand can vanish entirely overnight, exposing the lava rock beneath, only to slowly return later, resulting in a "magical" change of the shorelineWe spent hours relaxing on the soft sand, wading through the clear waters, and admiring the beach's unique features.
Later, we ventured to Manini'owali Beach, often referred to as "Kua Bay." This secluded beach, accessible by a short hike, is renowned for its pristine white sand and calm, turquoise waters. The beach's remote location and stunning beauty made it a truly unforgettable experience.
We returned to our hotel just in time to enjoy a stunning Hawaiian sunset while having a delicious dinner at Kai Eats.
Day 5
On our final day in Hawaii, we relaxed at the resort and took in its beautiful views before heading back to Kona International Airport for our flight to San Jose. However, if you have the time and interest, consider visiting the following attractions in the southern part of the island that we weren't able to see:
South Kona coffee country scenic drive
Punaluu Black sand beach to spot Hawaiian green sea turtles
Hapuna state beach for sunset
Captain Cook Monument at Kealakekua Bay
As our five-day journey on Hawaii's Big Island concluded, we were filled with awe and gratitude. From the depths of a volcanic crater to the tranquil beauty of its beaches, this island has truly captured our hearts. We will always treasure the memories of exploring lush rainforests, wading in clear waters, and witnessing the untouched beauty of nature. I hope this travel itinerary assists you in visiting and creating wonderful memories on the Big Island, just as it did for us.
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